Monstera is a tropical plant with large, lacy leaves that has become a true “star” among indoor green favorites. It not only adds coziness to any room but is also quite easy to care for. However, many gardeners are interested in how to propagate monstera and how to provide the best conditions for its rapid growth and health. In this article, you will learn about all the main methods of propagating monstera at home, receive step-by-step instructions and care tips, and also learn how to solve typical problems such as “the leaves of monstera are turning yellow.”
1. Monstera – what kind of plant is it?
Monstera (lat. Monstera deliciosa and other species) belongs to the family Araceae. This plant is known for its large, leathery leaves with characteristic cuts and holes. It originates from the tropical forests of Central and South America, where it grows as a vine, using long aerial roots to anchor itself to trees.
The main advantages of monstera as a houseplant:
- Attractive decorative appearance.
- Ease of care.
- Ability to grow quickly and reach significant sizes.
- Ability to purify the air from harmful substances.
If you are wondering, monstera is a plant for lovers of tropical exoticism, which brings a sense of freshness and decorates any interior.
2. How monstera propagates: main methods
Propagation of monstera can occur in several ways. The most popular among home gardeners are:
- Cutting (propagation) with leaves and aerial roots.
- Division of the bush (especially for older large specimens).
- Propagation by seeds (less common method).
Next, we will look at each of these methods in more detail so you can choose the most convenient option for yourself and properly propagate monstera at home.
2.1. Propagation by cuttings with aerial roots
This method is often referred to as “monstera propagation with leaves,” as it usually involves cutting a stem fragment with a leaf and an aerial root. It is considered one of the simplest and most effective methods.
What you will need:
- A healthy leaf with an aerial root or the beginning of an aerial root.
- A sharp sterile knife or garden scissors.
- A glass of water or a pot with loose substrate (a mixture of peat, perlite, coconut fiber).
Step-by-step instructions:
- Choosing a cutting. Find a leaf on the plant with a formed aerial root (or its bud).
- Cutting. Use a sharp knife to cut the stem in such a way that the leaf, node, and aerial root remain intact.
- Rooting in water or soil.
- Option 1: In water. Place the aerial root in a container of water. Make sure the leaf does not get wet. Change the water every 5–7 days, rinsing the roots.
- Option 2: In substrate. Plant the cutting in a small pot with a specially prepared mixture. Water moderately and cover with a transparent bag (if desired) to create a greenhouse effect.
- Waiting. Usually, new roots appear within a few weeks. If rooted in water, wait until they reach a length of 3–5 cm.
- Transplanting. When the roots are strong enough, transplant the young monstera sprout into a larger pot.
Tip: If you are rooting in water, remember to add a few drops of activated charcoal or a special preparation to prevent root rot.
2.2. Division of the bush
If your monstera is already quite mature and has several independent stems, you can use the method of dividing the bush (also referred to as “how to propagate monstera”).
Step-by-step instructions:
- Prepare the plant. Water the monstera a day or two before the procedure so that the root system is less traumatized when removed from the pot.
- Remove from the pot. Carefully remove the adult plant along with the root ball.
- Inspect the root system. Find parts with separate stems and roots that can be separated without significant damage.
- Divide. Using a sterile knife or pruner, carefully separate the chosen section (ensuring it has roots and at least one leaf or growth point).
- Plant in a new pot. Use well-drained substrate. Water moderately, place in a warm spot with light, but not direct sunlight.
- Care for both parts. Both the “mother” plant and the “divided” part may need slightly increased humidity and light shading for the first 1–2 weeks.
2.3. Propagation by seeds (rare method)
Although monstera seeds can be found for sale, this method is quite complicated and requires more time and patience. At home, seeds often do not retain good viability.
Main steps:
- Sow the seeds in a light substrate (peat + perlite).
- Create a greenhouse (transparent container or bag).
- Keep at a temperature of +25…+28 °C.
- Moisten the substrate, ventilate the greenhouse once a day.
- Seedlings may appear in 2–6 weeks depending on the freshness of the seeds and the conditions of germination.
Despite the appeal of the idea of growing monstera “from scratch,” most houseplant enthusiasts prefer cutting or division of the bush as they are more reliable and simpler.
3. How to transplant monstera and care after propagation
After you have successfully separated the cutting or part of the bush, it is important to provide the plants with proper care. This ensures that your young specimens will root quickly and start to grow.
3.1. Watering and humidity
- Moderate watering. Monstera loves moisture but does not tolerate “swamps” in the pot. Focus on the top layer of soil – if it has dried out by 2–3 cm, it is time to water.
- Winter mode. In the cold season, monstera grows more slowly, so watering is reduced.
- Increased humidity. In the tropics, monstera is used to humidity, so it is beneficial to mist the leaves or place the pot on a tray with wet pebbles.
3.2. Lighting and temperature
- Bright, diffused light. Avoid direct sunlight as it can cause leaf burns.
- West or east window. The optimal choice for most aroids. If you only have a south-facing window, shade the plant with a curtain or blinds.
- Temperature. Optimal +18…+25 °C. In winter, it is not advisable to let it drop below +16 °C.
3.3. Soil and transplanting
- Light, nutrient-rich substrate. A universal soil mixture with the addition of perlite, bark, and coconut substrate is ideal as it improves drainage.
- Pot with drainage holes. Water stagnation is unacceptable.
- Planned transplanting. Young monsteras are transplanted once a year in spring, while adults are transplanted every 2–3 years.
3.4. Fertilizing and nutrients
- Regular feeding. During the active growth period (spring-summer), monstera is fed once a month with fertilizers for decorative leafy plants.
- Winter period. When growth slows down, the amount of fertilizer is reduced or feeding is stopped.
- Fertilizer composition. Pay attention to a balanced content of nitrogen (for leaf growth), phosphorus, and potassium.
4. Frequently asked questions
4.1. Why are the leaves of monstera turning yellow?
The reasons can vary:
- Overwatering or water stagnation in the pot.
- Insufficient lighting – the leaves lose their rich color.
- Nutrient deficiency – if it hasn’t been fertilized for a long time.
- Drought – monstera likes consistently moist but not waterlogged soil.
First, check the watering regime and the condition of the soil. If the plant is overwatered, reduce watering and ensure there is good drainage. If there is a nutrient deficiency, apply balanced fertilizers.
4.2. How to save monstera if it is wilting or sick?
- Diagnosis. Inspect the leaves, stems, and roots. Check the soil for overwatering or drought.
- Adjusting conditions. Adjust watering, check humidity levels, and lighting.
- Pruning damaged parts. If there is root rot, cut away the affected areas and treat with a fungicide or charcoal.
- Pest prevention. Spider mites, scale insects, and other pests can weaken the plant. If signs of infestation appear, use insecticides.
4.3. How fast does monstera grow?
Under favorable conditions (sufficient moisture, warmth, light, and regular feeding) monstera can produce several new leaves per year and quickly reach a height of 1–2 meters. In a tropical environment, it can grow even larger, as in nature, monsteras are vines that climb trees several meters high.
4.4. Are the principles of propagation for alocasia and monstera similar?
Yes, alocasia propagation (as with most aroids) also involves division of the bush and cuttings. However, in alocasia, division of the rhizome (bulbs) is more commonly used than aerial roots. Therefore, if you have already mastered the care and propagation of monstera, understanding alocasia will be much easier.
Conclusion
As you can see, propagating monstera at home is not difficult, and obtaining new young plants is very pleasant for any houseplant enthusiast. Choose the method you prefer – cutting with aerial roots or dividing an adult bush. The main thing is to provide proper care after the procedure: monitor humidity, nutrients, temperature, and lighting.
By following these simple recommendations, your monstera will quickly root and grow healthy and lush, delighting the eye with its large decorative leaves. If you are looking for an exotic yet not overly demanding plant, monstera will be the perfect choice!